Steve (DOS) and I just stayed at the Iconic and Historic TWA Hotel, located adjacent to Terminal 5 (Jet Blue Terminal) in JFK Airport. This was a one night stay as part of our first stop on a nearly month long journey to Japan. (More about Japan in the next post). We have both been wanting to stay at the TWA Hotel, as Steve (DOS) is a retired pilot for American (which TWA was eventually absorbed into American Airlines), and prior to retirement, I traveled almost weekly as a Field Engineer to job sites across the country for system design and implementation.
In short, we both love flying, and even as a kid I was always impressed with he timetables for TWA (yes I collected those and other airlines too as a young teenager!) which showed at the time, a super long route to Athens or Rome, which had an odd curvature on the map, as it was so far away. Wow – thought as a kid, I want to travel like that some day!
DOS and I flew up to JFK from our home airport in Orlando (MCO) and fortunately had no delays, unlike passengers on dozens of other flights due to the weather in the North East. It wasn’t snow this time, rather torrential rains and very heavy winds that canceled flights to and from the Washington DC area up to Boston. Some of the New York flights were canceled, but fortunately our’s to JFK was not. Still it was a stressful couple of days wondering if we would make it to JFK and ultimately our Japan flight a day later. We stayed at the Hyatt Regency in Orlando the day prior to our JFK flight, and fortunately had a pleasant stay, dinner, breakfast and onetime flight at 11:20am on St. Patrick’s Day to JFK. I met one couple going to Laguardia whose flight was canceled and due to all of the other flights being canceled couldn’t get home for two days!
Our flight on Delta to JFK was on an Airbus 321, and we had a comfortable seat in First Class in seats 4A and B. We had a male flight attendant, Marcus, who could have had a side gig as a stand-up comedian, making the flight fun as he served us a lunchtime meal. We wore green colored shirts for our St. Patrick’s Day flight. I started out with a green sweater, but took it off as it was a bit warm for the flight. The flight was smooth, unlike a bumpy ride we were expecting with all of the wind, but it wasn’t bad until the last 15 minutes or so when it got a bit bumpy.
DOS took a couple photos of Manhattan in the far distance as we descended into New York, fortunately as it quite far away, the only zoomed in photo that was really ok is this one down below; not the greatest but part of the moment.
We arrived at Terminal 4 used by Delta and a few other foreign carriers, and literally had the most distant gate away from baggage claim as it could have been. An insanely long walk, even with half a dozen moving sidewalks with everyone seeming to be running a marathon of sorts. Welcome to New York! LOL!
We retrieved our luggage, rented a trolly cart for $5 (plus tax if using a credit card only) and proceed our walk to the Sky Train station, which took us one stop to Terminal 5. You’re allowed to take the trolly cart on the Sky Train which was nice, as they are doing a major $15 Billion renovation at JFK, and the entrance to terminal 5 was detoured, preventing a walk there.
As we approached the Terminal 5 stop, we got our first glimpse of the TWA Terminal and Hotel adjacent to the Jet Blue Terminal! Once off of the Sky Train, we walked to the Hotel on the outside, which was detoured thru skaleffd and boarded up passageways, but was much quicker we were told than going directly thru the Jet Blue Terminal, with all of our luggage.
It was very cold outside for St. Patrick’s Day in New York, a very breezy 28F on our walkway to the TWA Hotel. As we approached the TWA Hotel we stood in awe of the Terminal, and took a few quick shot of this historic building.
Once inside, at the check-in counter, we were given a map of the hotel, main terminal and explained where our room was in relation to the two wings of the property. One was called the Saarinen Wing, and the other the Hughes wing, with the main vast expanse of the Terminal (TWA Flight Center) area connecting both via red-carpeted tunnels. The TWA hotel itself is newer than the original Main TWA Terminal (also known as the TWA Flight Center which opened in 1962), with the TWA hotel opening in 2019. The hotel itself is divided into two towers which are reached by a long tunnel with RED carpet connecting to the Saarinen Wing or the Hughes Wing. The Tunnels (one heading to each wing) were used in the movie To Catch a Thief, with Leonardo DiCaprio in the 2002 movie.
Everything at the hotel speaks retro, with the original Main Terminal Flight Center opening in 1962. The year 1962 was a special one for me, as the was the year I was born! Throughout the Terminal, hotel rooms, and even the tarmac area hosting an original 1957 Constellation plane, the property is like one mammoth museum of TWA memorabilia, nostalgia, and a time capsule lost to the history books, that could never be re-lived in this day and age, some 54 years later. The TWA experience, as I’ll call it, evokes nostalgia memories of the entire 1960s era, and not just the TWA
Everywhere you look there is some type of memorabilia or exhibit, and at least in the public areas the mode is enhanced with continuous music being played from the 1960s, with Come Fly with Me being one of my favorites (although it was originally released in 1958 by Frank Sinatra).
CHECK-IN: The check-in area looks and feels like you are checking in for a flight, with the rows of check-in counters. No self-service kiosks were available or even invented back in 1962; you actually checked in with a real person! Imagine that concept! In our first funny experience on this Japan trip, the man who checked us in at the TWA Hotel said “All of your luggage will not fit in your room, as the rooms are very compact! Would you like to check some of your bags for pickup at departure?”🤣.
We do overpack, but this is a long trip and part of is an 11 night cruise, so we do have lots of luggage. We ended up checking our 3 checked airline bags overnight, while we took our 2 carryons, back pack, and laptop bag with us to our room. At first I thought we were being penalized or charged for ‘overweight’ bags, but they happily took the bag and gave us a baggage claim check; no charge for checked bags, thank you!😀
HOTEL ROOM: Our room was number 826, and located in the Saarinen wing of the TWA complex, via the long RED tunnel. There are two tunnels; one to the Saarinen Wing where our room was located, and the other to the Hughes Wing. I knew one of the Saarinen tunnel was featured in the film “Catch Me if You Can”, starring Leo DiCaprio, but it didn’t click with me until I wrote this post, and reviewed a photo I had taken of the huge model mockup of the TWA Terminal with the tunnels extending out to the planes, obviously later than the 1962 opening as there were jets shown in the model including a classic 747-100 model. These tunnels weren’t just to connect the hotel; these tunnels were how passengers went from the ticketing counter and main lobby lounges, shops, etc shown further below to reach the jetway of their respective aircraft. Sometimes I’m a little slow for the lightbulb to turn on!😀
We had booked a basic room, as we had seen quite a few videos on Youtube, and one man said most of the time you will be exploring the property, which we did, and most of rooms are compact as the guests generally just stay for a night or maybe two, to catch their flights. Our room rate was $297 and with tax was $350 or so. The rooms with a runway view and others were considerably higher, perhaps $200 or more extra, with the suites ranging a few hundred more. For us, our view was on the eighth (top) floor, and overlooked the new terminal and construction being built. Nothing fancy, but again most all of the rooms are compact, but still with nostalgic touches such as the rotary dial phone, “tulip” type tables, red sitting chair, and a large jar of TWA pencils (on the small counter behind the bed), just begging to be brought home! (No we didn’t take all of them, but couldn’t leave without half a dozen!)
The bathroom had a shower and toilet area, while the bedroom had a king-sized bed, and a flat panel wall TV, somewhat of an anachronism for this 1962 era theme. The room was very soundproof from outside plane noise; we didn’t hear any planes at all; while the walls interior seemed thin, at one point we heard an alarm clock going off in an adjacent room, but mostly a very quiet experience. The cozy room was perfect for one night.
Now, let’s explore the TWA Flight Center Terminal! Along the way we’re going to encounter lots of history, so prepare to linger or rush thru this and look at the photos, however you feel comfortable. First off, are two key figures whom the building wings are named after: Eero Saarinen and Howard Hughes.
EERO SAARINEN: Eero Saarinen (link from Wikipedia) was a renowned architect and designer who among other things designed the International Terminal at Dulles Airport, the St. Louis Arch, and the TWA Terminal (Flight Center) at JFK Airport. Unfortunately, Saarinen died the year before the TWA terminal opened in 1962, but his legacy lives on with his monuments to technology, artistry, symmetry, style, and class. This elegant building that was used as a terminal for TWA (and American Airlines via a later merger) until 2001. Fortunately it wasn’t demolished while new terminals and buildings were erected over the years.
HOWARDS HUGHES: The other aviation pioneer, Billionaire Howard Hughes, (link from Wikipedia), was an early film mogul, and avid aviation buff, and among many other endeavors was a majority owner of TWA. Hughes was an early advocate of TWA acquiring the multiple Connies they owned during the day. There is a replica of Howard Hughes TWA office located in the Saarinen wing, just off the elevator lobby where passengers from the Jet Blue Terminal enter the Hotel. The desk, however is Hughe’s original desk, with a model of the Connie on it among other things.
There is also a giant original globe used by Hughes on display next to this desk, which he used to chart new worldwide routes, using a string to map distances, apparently in competition with Pan American World Airways during the day.
Throughout the Flight Center are many posters of exotic faraway cities where TWA flew, as well as retro photos of the 1960s era itself, the aircraft TWA flew, flight uniforms, photo walls of various celebrities who had flown TWA from “Lassie” to Lucile Ball, to the Pope, to a large floor model of the TWA Terminal with model aircraft parked around; and even typewriters – yes young people of today:; typewriters were a real thing prior to the laptops of today! There’s literally something unique and interesting everywhere you look here at the TWA Hotel!
One of the big attractions at the TWA Hotel, is an actual Constellation plane (known affectionally as the Connie), which sits on the tarmac, viewable from the hotel, and is now a cocktail bar in the evenings. Leading to the doorway exit to the outdoor Connie is a whole hallway section of posters detailing the history of the Connie, as well as the ultimate last journey it took (via trailer), trucked all the way from St. Louis to its now home at JFK Airport. Quite interesting!
Ironically the TWA Flight Center was designed with the workhorse “Connie” in mind, yet even during the construction of the Flight Center Terminal, like many large projects, it was actually outdated before it was completed, due to the coming of the jet age, and soon thereafter, in the early 70s of the jumbo jets with the 747 and L1011. The “Connie” on display just outside the Flight Center on the tarmac was a Lockheed model, circa 1957, one of only four left in the world. The cocktail lounge on the Connie is open from 4pm until 10pm or so.
MAIN TERMINAL Flight Center: The Main and original TWA Terminal, also known as the Flight Center is an amazing piece of architecture, full of grandeur and grace. Ironically as said before, it would quickly come outdated even as is was being constructed, due to the coming of the jet age. Add to the fact, one of those “gee I never thought about that before I toured the TWA Hotel property, was back in 1962 there were no security line metal detectors, luggage x-ray scanners, etc, so the design wasn’t made to accommodate that. Back then travelers were wealthy, business executives etc, and in that innocent age, there was no need for the modern security and other things had not even been invented; i.e. smart phones, wifi internet access, etc, and TV monitors were non existent, with huge “clack-board” noises flight arrival/departure boards, and a large analog clock in the lobby. Thus with change necessitates today’s design aspects and on-going growth and technology challenges.
But just let you mind go back to the glorious days of 1962 airplane travel, and you will see a sweeping wing-designed terminal with huge and high sweeping ceilings, floor to ceiling glass windows offering fantastic views of the aircraft and runways, with airport restaurants, and shops to keep you occupied pre-flight, or waiting on passengers to arrive.
VINTAGE CARS: In the lobby, as well as out front of the hotel are several vintage cars of the day on display. Imagine arriving in style to this brand new terminal back in the day!
PHONE BOOTHS: Today these are certainly a relic of the past, but way before cell phones this is where you’d make a call. Imagine that kids; and they weren’t even touch tone or smart payphone! Even hotels still have a few hallway phones left in banquet or meeting room areas, although today they are mostly house phones. Like airports, hotels used to have banks of these calls for the busy business traveler wanting to call home or for their next appointment, etc.
BEAUTY PARLOR: Once inside, the lady’s no doubt, might want to spend some time in the Beauty Parlor, complete with pink beauty styling chairs and dryers, vintage magazines to read, and even TWA branded packages of “Sweet and Low” for your coffee! I had to look up when Sweet and Low was invented: 1957.
TWISTER: I don’t think the Twister room was actually in the airport then, but it gives a glimpse of the entertainment of the 1960s era; way before the video game craze, smart phone games, escape rooms etc. The Twister game craze started in 1966 by the way.
SHOE SHINE: Not the best shoe shine photo of me as I’m wearing tennis shoes, but a vintage show shine stand awaits you or at least a photo.
PHOTO BOOTH: How many times have you enjoyed the Photo Booth pics somewhere along the line; amusement park, mall, movie theater perhaps, but in an airport? And this exhibit is free! It actually takes 3 photos, prints in in a couple minutes, and you can even email it so someone.
FOOD COURT: There is a food court on the ground floor level that is open 24 hours a day, which features snacks, drinks, yogurt parfaits, bagels, crepes, paninis, salads, hotdogs, etc, as well as sodas, water, tea, ice cream etc. This was great for us for a late afternoon panini, but not too heavy to fill us up for our dinner late that evening.
LOUNGES/RESTAURANTS: The Sunken Lounge , with its red carpet is located in the vast lobby area of the Flight Center, which offers drinks and food as well, overlooking the Terminal area, and the Connie out on the tarmac. It looked like a comfortable and fun place to sit and have a drink, and/or food, but we were so busy looking around the hotel, we didn’t use this lounge, rather went to the Pool Rooftop Bar. There is also a bar adjacent to the lounge offering great views of the terminal and Connie as well.
There is also the Parisian Cafe, which serves Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner from 7am – 10pm, and on Friday and Saturday until 11pm. We did not eat here, but did walk thru it for a couple photos.
GIFT SHOP: This shop located in the Main Lobby area, has all of the TWA themed memorabilia you could ask for. From TWA Robes to T-shirts, caps, stickers, bags, and Christmas ornaments etc, it’s a treasure trove of TWA merchandise for the TWA or other retro plane enthusiast.
ROOFTOP POOL BAR: No, we didn’t go swimming in the heated outdoor rooftop pool, although even though it was in the mid- high 20’s F, we saw several brave souls swimming and lookin out at the view overlooking the runways. In one word, it was COLD on our one night stay at the hotel. We talked to a couple people that were either in the pool or who later came into the bar, covered by their TWA Robes, and said the water was fine, (it’s heated to 95 degrees F,) but getting out of the pool was brutal.
This pool would be fun in the warmer months, and from May to November there is actually a $25 fee to use the pool in a 2 hour block, or $20 for hotel guests, with reservations required, most likely to prevent overcrowding. No need to worry though on this cold St. Patrick’s Day, although even for New York this was unseasonably chilly with the cold front which had moved in the last couple days.
We thoroughly enjoyed the Rooftop Pool Bar, however, which was at the far end of the pool area, overlooking the Jet Blue Terminal 5, one of the runways in the distance, as well as Terminal 4, which is home to Delta, Emirates, Etihad, and a few other airlines. We had to brave the cold weather with our zippered sweat jackets, but once there, this winter-themed pool bar felt like an alpine resort, with ski-memorabilia, covered chairs with white shawls adorning them, Christmas type lights etc, and of course a couple TWA posters.
There was a large bar in the center, and chairs and tables inside the bar area as well. We had a drink there after having had the panini in the food court earlier, and enjoyed the atmosphere so much we went back later for dinner and drinks. The hours fluctuate, but on the Tuesday we went, they were open until 10:30pm. For winter, the hard plastic windows are enclosed due to the cold, however in the warmer months the windows open up, or are removed to provide even clearer views of the runway and planes taxiing to the terminals. The Bartender said they change the theming for seasons as well, which would be cool to see (no pun intended) at another time of the year.
COCKTAILS IN THE CONNIE! After seeing the above exhibits, and later showering and changing into warmer clothes, we went out to see the Connie up close. We didn’t get there until 7:45pm or so, and you reach it via a door via the main concourse. Once outside you walk across the tarmac to the Connie, and climb the air-stairs to reach the 4 engine’s plane fuselage entrance. Probably due to the cold weather, there were only three or four couples inside the plane, which in its flying heyday held 100 passengers in an all 2 X 2 coach comfort. There were several actual plane seats you could sit in, which did feel a bit narrow to me, but the pitch was much better than today’s cattle-car coach pitch.
The back half of the plane has been configured with red sofas (to match the red carpet) for a more comfortable, living-room-like seating, and to have a cocktail or other drink. I ordered a brewski from the flight-attendant dressed bartender, while DOS had a soda. The bartender oddly asked us if we had a reservation, and we said no (considering it was freezing outside and hardly anyone was there), and she said no problem but still “checked us in” with our names and phone number. She said in busier months they normally require reservations due to capacity and larger groups which is understandable for such a unique cocktail lounge. We had a nice chat with a couple from Memphis over drinks, and discussed travel they and we had both done, and our mutual love for aircraft. We also got a few of the TWA paper coasters they had for complimentary souvenirs to take with us.
RETURN TO THE ROOFTOP BAR FOR DINNER: After our leisurely time on the Connie, we again braved the cold, and carefully held onto the air-stairs as we descended back to the tarmac.
We then went back to the Rooftop Pool and Bar, and were surprised to see a couple swimming at 9pm, at which point it was probably 25F outside! We shivered and waved, and went to the Bar area for drinks and a light dinner. There were just a couple other people inside we chatted with as well. Again, we really enjoyed the ambiance of the special alpine-themed pool bar, and I had both burger sliders (3), and a small flat bread pizza as well, while DOS just had the flat bread pizza. I guess I was hungrier than I thought! I had a couple brewskis to accompany my food, while DOS stuck with plain water. We headed out just after 10pm, as we were both getting tired and had a full day of flying the next day.
SUMMARY: As you can tell, we absolutely loved staying at the TWA Hotel! You can visit many of these exhibits if you’re not staying at the hotel, but you do need time to get there, and it wouldn’t be ideal if you have luggage with you as there is quite a bit of walking. We were there overnight, but still didn’t get to see a few things I wanted to, such as the flight, ground, and flight attendants uniforms which were on display in different sections, grouped by their work position.
If you are ever on a flight to or from JFK, or have a long or overnight connection, the TWA Hotel property is an idea place for an overnight visit for convenience, or especially if you’re an airline or airport enthusiast like us. We will definitely go back, but in some warmer months, although December might be a neat time to visit with all of the Christmas theming they must have. And no, I don’t get a commission or a free night for recommending this hotel (or anything else on this site.). If I like something, I’m only too happy to pass along the recommendation.
Bye for now! Next stop will be Tokyo!